Saturday, February 26, 2011

March 9 (Updated 3/11) : Addo Elephant National Park

We leave Hogsback Resort area after a wonderful 2 days and head into South Africa's East Cape province which was Nelson Mandela's home base. We enter the town of Alice and the University of Fort Hart where Mandela attended law school before he began his liberation activities. We drive through Grahamstown, the capital of the East Cape Province and arrive at our destination about 3 PM. We are spending the night at the Addo Elephant National Park. The Park is home to the concentration of Addo African elephants as well as Cape Buffalo, lion, black rhino and countless prey, antelopes.  The elephants are unique in that only 17% of the female elephants have tusks. We will be spending the night in rooms at a lodge within the Park and taking a late afternoon game drive in a truck.  (www.sanparks.org/parks/addo). Facilities are excellent with a nice double bed. Below is a picture of the skull/horns of the various animals including one of a dolphin; no silly, dolphins are not park residents.


Wall of Horns

My Accommodations
After checking in, we depart at 4 PM for a 2 1/2 hour safari drive. The gates to the camping areas within these National Parks are locked between 6:30 - 7 PM. The camping/cottage areas are surrounded by electric fences to keep the game animals form eating the resident campers...sounds like a good idea to me. Our safari drive is semi successful with the biggest prize being an awesome photo of a male kudu who seems to be posing as he stands on a ridge. What we saw were:

  • black-spotted jackal
  • 2 adolescent elephants wrestling with their tusks
  • a sexually aroused male elephant; boy are they big!!
  • a couple of ostriches
  • the beautiful male kudu plus others
  • a bushbuck
  • Eland carcass
  • warthog family
  • Egyptian geese
  • scrub hare (rabbit)
  • dung beetles

Male Kudu
Adolescent Wrestlers

Dung Beetles
Eland Carcass - Leftovers
We get back to the cottages at 6:15 PM. Dinner and early to bed. Since I have an extensive library on my Kindle, I have been reading every night and am now reading my 6 th book, "Cutting for Stone". Tomorrow, we are going out at 6 AM for our final, yes final, drive safari to see if we can duplicate the luck we had in Kruger; a lion and maybe a leopard....zzzzz

March 7/8 (Updated 3/11): Hogsback Valley and The Valley of Fairies

I never realized that there were as many mountain ranges in South Africa. The road out of Malealea is as treacherous going out as coming in...a nail biter. As we depart, we see children and teenagers going to school dressed : boys - white shirt and pants, girls - skirts and blouses...our students should dress as well. The boy on the mule is an African cowboy...children who do not want to go to school herd the cattle/sheep for the family. The people standing at roadside are waiting for transportation which is provided by minivans...very much like the SLUGS of the DC suburbs who get to work in other people's vehicles...Africans pay for their rides. The yellow building is a rural telephone booth offering telephone serve to the rural community.


Road to Redemption - Hogsback

African Cowboy


Rural Telephone Booth
Bus Stop
"Rough Road, Fasten Safety Belt,
Remove Dentures and Hearing Aids"
Crossing into South Africa- Again
We leave Lesotho, cross the border at the South African checkpoint of Sepapushek and travel south into South Africa's East Cape province. Since we are approaching our destination, Hogsback Mountain resort area, from the NE, our only access is a 50 km (30 miles) of a rough dirt road...bumpty...bumpty..here we go...again!! The weather turns threatening, looks mean and becomes mean...lighting after lighting stroke and the torrents of rain begin...oh great...I can just see us now sliding off the road into a ditch, just like we did in Namibia.  We make into the picturesque Hogsback Valley located within the Amatola Mountains. We stay in en- suite rooms at Kings Lodge (http://www.kingslodgehogsback.co.za/). What a great looking place in spite of the rain.

Another Great Room - King's Lodge

Threatening Weather



It's about 6 PM and the electricity goes our due to the storm. The Lodge has emergency generating power for the kitchen and main dining areas. Candles are distributed to the guests and line the hallways throughout the Lodge....looks surreal...reminds me of Jack Nickleson in the Shining....woooooo!!!

Dinner...no light....go to bed because..?????? ....we are going hiking tomorrow morning if the weather is nice....zzzzzz

Rise at 7:30 AM completely refreshed and the sun is shining brightly. We are leaving for a 6 km hike to the Madonna and Child waterfalls. Off we go to our starting point which is a backpacker's facility named "Valley of the Fairies" (more about this later).The folks at the backpacker's inn give us a trail map and instruct us where to go and what to avoid. As we approach the view point, we come across 2 interesting artifacts...a bathtub hanging on a cliff's edge and a "Lord of the Chain Rings" green vehicle....this is going to be an interesting hike. 

Sylvia in the Green Machine
Taking a Bath
The hike is one of the nicest that I have taken; anytime. We were in the woods 95% of the time so that the sun wasn't beating down on us. The trail was well marked and maintained with steps and handrails where required. We were approaching "Big Tree" a landmark and the trial's turning point when there is a major noise in the bushes and out bounds a beautiful golden lab and his tiny side-kick buddy. It scared the heck out of me; our 2 new friends stayed with us until we reached the Falls.


Easy Does It
 

An Enjoyable Hike
 

Tom and Friend
 

"Big Tree - 800 Years Old"


We reach the Falls and a magnificent sight and sound it makes....as you can see from the photos...it truly is beautiful. After a few minutes of enjoyment and soaking tired feet, we must climb to the top of the Falls to meet Shadi who will drive us back to King's Lodge.

Going Up - Ain't Easy


Under Madonna and Child Spray
Now to the Valley of the Fairies" backpacker's camp. As I travel, I become more convinced that traveling and staying at backpacker camps is the way to go. The places are friendly to all visitors, have Internet at reasonable prices, people to talk/discuss various topics, youthful in age by my standards and a bar that serves inexpensive and generous libations. I spent 4 hours updating this BLOG and partaking of their delicious red South African wine for 10 Rand ($1.25) per large glass....yuuum. I have attached pictures of the inside of the bar...I met the owner Daniel...an Englishman who was traveling through the area as a backpacker ten years ago...he loved it...stayed and worked at a backpacker facility nearby...bought out the owner when he moved back to England...here he is...married and enjoying life....

Bar Area with Nation Flags
Welcome to Fairyland
I got back to King's Lodge late for dinner...having too good of a time at "Fairies"......since we were leaving early in the AM and my wine consumption was causing drowsiness, I went to bed at 9 PM....

March 5 (Updated 3/10): Drakenberg, SA to Kingdom of Lesotho - Switzerland of Africa

We depart Drakensville Resort at 7:30 AM and head towards Lesotho. It will be a long drive, approximately 8 hours, along rural mountainous roads. The scenery is spectacular....dams that create huge lakes, mountains with colorful out croppings and western US buttes surrounded by large fields of sunflowers....awesome!!





 
Entering Golden Gate Park

River Carved Cave











 
 
Colorful Rocks Formations
Sunflower Butte


 








Lesotho is a country in southern Africa, known as the Kingdom in the Sky because of its lofty altitude in the Maluti mountains— it has the highest lowest point of any country in the world (over 1.4 miles) and is the only country to be entirely above 1000meters! Lesotho appears to be poorer than Swaziland since its ability  to grow crops is limited due to its elevation, cooler weather and lack of rainfall trough much of the country. We cross the border...entering/exiting South Africa appears to be more time consuming than other South African countries; lack of active immigration agents seems to be the cause.


Crossing Lesotho Border
Lesotho Countryside

 The drive through Lesotho is along 2 lane roads, expansive countryside of valleys and mountains and small villages. People walk; their access to vehicles being minivans which are the buses/taxis between point A and B. We finally arrive at our destination which is located 5 kilometers (3 miles) from the main road along this exciting rough dirt road. Our accommodations for the next 2 nights; the Malealea Lodge. We will be spending 2 days here hiking trails, visiting a village, school and getting to know the people. See (http://www.malealea.com/). I would classify this Lodge as rustic and fascinating.


Typical Cinder Block or Adobe Homes

Road to Malealea Lodge


Facilities at Malealea include group cottages, single cottages (one that I'm in) and camping areas. There is a large bar area with a pool table, dining halls for our personal use and a fire area for local get-togethers and entertainment. My room, en suite, is quite nice and clean. One potential drawback is that electricity is available from 5  - 10 PM is due to its remote location; generator electricity only.


Main Building - Rec Area + Bar

Cottage 9 - TJW's Abode

Before dinner, there is entertainment provided by a group of singers and a band from a local village. The singers sing a cappella perform about 8 local songs...some slow...some fast...all beautifully done. Next a group of 5 guys play instruments; 3 string instruments made of 5 gallon gas cans and one percussion instrument made out of a steel drum with a rubber tire tube...the 5 kid sang and danced...this group was featured on British TV years ago when some TV executive saw them perform while he was visiting Malealea....It was a ball to watch their performance and intensity.

The Band - Notice Instruments
Local Singing Group

At the entertainment session, the four young ladies you see wrapped in the red blankets talked funny; like Americans. Being a curious type guy, I went up and introduced myself and I was right, they did talk funny...they were from Houston, Texas. Not only that, they were 1st and 3rd pediatric med students at a Houston hospital doing volunteer work in Lesotho's capital. We talked and I felt a little pride as an American that these young women would volunteer their time to help others.  They promised to send me their names so I might include them in this BLOG. Dinner, a game of pool and off to bed because an early morning hike to "Bushmen Paintings" is scheduled. The picture below is a view of the mountainous area from my cottage....zzzzzzzzzz

Houston Pediatric Med Students

View from Tom's Abode


March 3/4 (Updated 3/8): Royal National Park and Drakensberg Mountain Range

We depart Durban and stop at a major shopping center called Pavilion...would challenge any American Mall. 

Mall Interior
Mall Exterior
After buying necessities, we travel inland. The area around Durban is major farming territory...specializing in sugar...corn...cattle.  

Sugar Fields outside Durban
Rolling Farm Country-Side

We drive to the Royal Natal National Park and the massive Drankensberg mountain range, South Africa's highest, with peaks over 9,000 feet. We stay at the Drakensville Resort, http://www.drakensville.co.za/, for the two days while we hike or ride horses to explore this beautiful area.

This is a family oriented camp ground with nice rooms (I'm in one),cabins and hook-up camps...we have a putt-putt course (9 holes 0nly), 2 swimming pools whose temperatures approach 80 degrees (like warm "P"). This are is a designated UNESCO site...absolutely beautiful mountains. We arrive around 2 PM, settle into our new digs and relax...putt-putt, pool at the bar , etc.. I am using my Kindle to maximum use...have read all of the "Girl with the Dragon Tattoo" trilogy, "Silence (a murder mystery) and "Secret of Bees"...our trips are long...extending over 4 - 5 hours but we are seeing Southern Africa and meeting its people.
Nice Room
Our Home for 2 Nights
Diner is a macaroni and meat dish...guess what...we hike tomorrow at 8 AM...no TV, read before bed...it isn't a bad way to live one's life...zzz.

Up early...we are taking a trek to Tiger Falls located at uKhalalamba Drakensberg Park...an awesome amphitheatre  of mountains. The trek is about 8 KM (about 5 miles round trip). It was an interesting hike to a beautiful falls...a steep hike up but a gentle walk down.
After the hike, I wash my hiking clothes, lunch and to the warm "P" pool....which does little to relieve the heat.....putt-putt, pool at the bar and dinner...guess what...next morning is an early departure...7 AM.


The Hikers Led by Shadi
Cross Over the Bridge..



Looking into the Amphitheatre
On Top of the World



Bald Mountain Falls
Heading Home
Heaven on Earth
Tiger Falls